My new project has a slate and zinc roof - spray foamed deck. remember roof venting and attic venting are not the same. and that a properly working vent (most are not)Ī proper Roof vent requires double sheathing - few do that. Studies show that in most climates the temp different not the roof is about 20 degrees. Read up on shingle manufactures most have dropped the venting requirement. I have eben sealing up my buildings since the late 80's - no vents.
#FABRAL SOFFIT FULL#
and you are paying for the electric.Ĭlosed building structures are around for a long time 40+ years and have been proven to work - NJ's energy program mandates it for getting the full rebate.Īgain - read up and look to get an energy audit from an expert - blower door test. Power vents are even worse - they pull air from inside the attic (negative pressure) sucking both heat and AC out of the living space under it. Most houses with typical venting are energy hogs - the roof opening (vents) create pathways for conditioned air to exit the building and create negitive pressure inside the building. Old school DLSS roof is sealed - be it copper/tin/zinc. Venting a roof and venting an attic are two different things. also, most of what people call standing seam is not "true" standing seam and requires whatever the roofing manufacturer specifies for proper installation. What you need to look for is an energy expert. Well - I'm going to go the other way and first ask you what are you venting ? and why? The same should always be asked when looking at a crawl space. price point, what is a high-volume product in the local area, and have literature which can help with the design of the areas. The inside sales people there will have a good idea about features vs. The passive solutions require zero energy and no maintenance.Įdit: some good info may come from one of the places which supply roofing and siding products in your area, that's not a box store. They seem simple enough but also seem like they aren't very robust, and thus changing a motor out, 12' up from the floor of the attic isn't my idea of fun anymore. I have had powered vents on my personal houses over the years as I've moved.
It seems like it would be a good solution for those roofs I mentioned above. I have seen the vented hip caps but never installed them. The non-snow-country has no nails you supply your own. The "Snow Country" differs from the standard in that it comes with a set of 3" ring shank nails to aid in installing it. It seems to be pretty well-developed as far as snow and water intrusion. GAF Cobra "Snow Country" ridge vent is what is typically put in around here. Same for the ridge vent per linear foot of ridge. The cross-sectional area is typically published. You have to figure out what is installed at the soffit. The calculations are pretty simple but it takes some homework. But I can see that its really hard to equalize areas: soffit vs. I see a lot of 12:12 super tall hip roofs, in a high-end real estate area that seem like they end in 8 feet of ridge. From what I've read, its better to have more intake than exhaust, especially if you are using a ridge vent so it does not suck weather (snow, rain) into your attic.
#FABRAL SOFFIT INSTALL#
The two main things to remember are to.ġ) Make sure you install at least the minimum recommended amount of exhaust for your attic area.Ģ) Make sure you have at least the same amount of intake area as exhaust (if not a little extra). There are a few calculators out there to help you along with the process, this is the one I used when I had to figure this out for my garage: If they recommend something wildly different than what you came up with, you can at least have an educated conversation with them to figure out the source of the discrepancy. If anything, learning about it and going through the exercise will help you know what to expect when a contractor shows up to make recommendations. If you're willing to do the math, its not as difficult as you might think to figure out how much ventilation you need to install.
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